MY GEAR LIST

I’m often asked what gear I use or would recommend to photographers. So I’ve compiled a comprehensive list of the gear I currently use(or have used) that gets my seal of approval. I won’t recommend anything I feel is cheap, unreliable, or a waste of your hard earned money. Despite that, some of my pics you may not enjoy because we have different needs, shooting styles, mothers, etc. Courses for horses as they say.

On the camera front, I’m only recommending gear from, or compatible with, Sony, Fujifilm, or Panasonic systems. I’ve shot Canon and Nikon extensively, but only focused on these three as I feel they’re the best. One man’s opinion.

I’ll be updating this list periodically as I get new things, replace old things, etc. so feel free to revisit from time-to-time. Links provided will take you to various stores that I have an affiliate account with. Your support will help the blog continue to grow as well as support creative projects I’m working on. I thank you for the support.

Whether you’re a pro or just starting out, I hope this list helps you make an informed purchasing decision:

CAMERAS

  • Sony A7RV - My current camera. An excellent, all-rounder full-frame camera with beautiful high-resolution files and quick, reliable autofocus. One of the best cameras I’ve ever used.

  • Panasonic S1R - If you’re shooting L-Mount this is the one to buy for the serious portrait shooter. Unless you want to spend several times more on the Leica SL-2. Beautiful files, wonderful ergonomics, and it’s built like a tank. That’s the only issue, it feels heavy like a tank in your hand. If the size and weight aren’t deal breakers for you, it’s a great buy, even today.

  • Fuji GFX 100 II - Expensive, but probably the best value medium format option on the market when combined with its specs. Lifelike/film-like images, much improved ergonomics, great customization options, updated video features, and much improved autofocus which now makes it reliable in eye-autofocus modes. If you can afford it, and prefer the look of medium format, this is the one.

  • Fuji GFX 50S II - If the GFX 100 II is outside your range, I would suggest the Fuji GFX 50S II. This is subjective, but I actually prefer the look of the files of the 50S sensor to the sensor in the 100II and 100S. I think the 102 megapixel cameras often look too sharp and more digital. The files from the 50S have a suppleness to them that makes them more reminscent of the skin detail you’d get from something like large format film. Even the files process differently. If you don’t need 102 megapixels or the improved features of the 100II, then I recommend this one as an affordable, but capable foray into medium format.

  • Fuj X-H2S - I briefly spent several months shooting exclusively with the Fujifilm XH2-S. I really enjoyed using that camera. Small, lightweight, and fast. The shooting experience is just fantastic. It felt like one of the most versatile cameras I’ve ever used as I could seamlessly switch from photo to video with little issue. Ultimately I didn’t like how APS-C renders skin tones for some of my other work, but that’s a me issue. If you want a professional workhorse camera in the APS-C format or part of the Fujifilm lineup, this is the one I recommend most.

  • Fuji X100V - It’s a bit long in the tooth now, but the X100V is still one of the best looking and fun cameras to use for day-to-day, travel, and street photography. It’s a great camera to just grab and go out to take pictures. The stylish design pairs it well with a good looking outfit and you’ll probably get a compliment or two from onlookers. The rangefinder and fixed lens design also allows it to pack down in a bag easily. I would often carry mine alongside my Sony FX3 in the same bag with no space issues to speak of. Brilliant camera for the shooter who wants little to no fuss.

LENSES

I’ve used dozens of different lenses throughout my career and at this point, I know the ones I’ll use and the ones that’ll only collect dust. So there won’t be any superfluous options here. If I don’t use it consistently, it’s probably because another lens covers that function and does an equal or better job. One thing you’ll notice is there are no manual focus only options here. I’ve tried that in the past, but I prefer the speed of autofocus. I’m not a purist, I use what gets the job done.

SONY E-MOUNT

  • Sony FE 24-70 f/2.8 GM II - Improved sharpness, focusing speed, and size when compared to the original model. This is one of the better 24-70’s on the market. I loved using it.

  • Sony FE 70-200 f/2.8 GM OSS II - My favorite 70-200mm lens. This version of the lens is smaller and lighter than its predecessor and with much faster focusing. This is how all 70-200mm lenses should be made. Highly recommended.

  • Sony FE 35mm f/1.8 Lens - Outside of the G-Master version this is probably Sony’s best 35mm lens. There’s a Zeiss 35mm f/2.8 which is much smaller, but you lose a lot of low-light capability. The 1.8 is longer than that one, but still small for a full-frame lens. Focuses fast, no focus-breathing in video, the images are superb.

  • Sony Sonnar T* FE 55mm f/1.8 ZA - A Sony Zeiss collaboration with Zeiss’ signature coatings. I use this lens mainly for street photography and I really like the 55mm focal length. I sometimes find 50mm a bit boring so it’s nice to have a more unique focal length in this range. About the same size as the 35mm f/1.8 it’s a lens I always have in my bag for client work or everyday photography. Buy it on sale or used. It’s a bit old now but still often retails for about $900 new.

  • Tamron 28-75mm f/2.8 Di III VXD G2 - The name is definitely a mouthful, but the 28-75mm G2 by Tamron is a brilliant lens that gives up a little on the wide end to give you extra reach on the telephoto end. I prefer 28-75 as I hardly ever need anything wider than 28mm but I have lenses to cover the wide end if I need it. What’s great about this one is the size, weight, and speed. Also, the close focusing distance allows for some really unique compositions. And it’s relatively inexpensive, especially with compared to the Sony G-Master.

  • Tamron 70-180 f/2.8 Di III VC VXD G2 - Another lengthy name, but another brilliant lens from Tamron. Similar to the 28-75, you get reduced size and weight, as well as a very attractive price point for a telephoto zoom lens. Especially when compared to Sony’s 70-200 offering. You do lose 20mm on the long end, but I hardly have a use for 200mm so it’s not something that bothers me. The lens is budget friendly, but not “cheaply made”. Buy with confidence, it’s great.

  • Sigma 50mm f/1.2 DG DN Art Lens - I wanted an exceptional 50mm lens for portrait work and this Sigma fit the bill. I’ve owned the 50mm f/1.2 Sony G-Master previously, but I actually prefer the look of Sigma lenses in both photo and video. Some say clinical, I say pristine. Anywho, this lens is razor sharp, small for what it is, and the price can’t be beat for such a magnificent 50mm.

  • Sigma 85mm f/1.4 DG DN Art Lens - Generally I shoot portraits in the 100mm range, but I do like the look of 85mm. On Sony’s E-mount there are countless options. The Sigma 85mm DG DN seems to take the crown in terms of both price and performance. Be warned, this lens does distort considerably. While it can be corrected in post with lens corrections, it can present some compositional problems. Forget it for video when you need straight lines on the horizon. Despite its flaws, it’s probably the sharpest 85mm lens around with beautiful rendering and biting contrast. I wanted an 85mm lens that would produce quality similar to my Sigma 105mm 1.4 ART lents and this was the only one available that I found gave me both a look and sharpness consistent with that lens. An amazing lens with only distortion being its shortcoming.

  • Samyang AF 135mm f/1.8 FE - Another brilliant lens by Samyang. The 135 is sharper than Sony’s amazing G-Master 135mm for more than half the price. It’s also lightweight and images are just…chef’s kiss.

  • Sigma 105mm f/1.4 DG HSM ART - A behemoth of a lens that doubles as a dumbell, the Sigma 105mm f/1.4 ART is, in my opinion, one of the greatest lenses every made. A non compromise, large in charge design, it produces absolutely beautiful portraits with obliterated backgrounds and sharp subject isolation. For a lens made back in 2018, it still beats many lenses today. I have it paired with the Sony A7RV and use it sort of like my full-frame equivalent of Fujifilm’s brilliant GF 110mm f/2 Lens. If you don’t shoot Sony, you can get natively for L-Mount, Canon EF, and Nikon F mount. I’ve owned both the Canon and Nikon versions as well as adapted them to their modern mirrorless cameras with great results. It performs like a native lens on those systems. No matter what system you shoot, it’s still a phenomenal lens and worth adding to any collection.

L-MOUNT

  • Panasonic S PRO 24-70 - For L-Mount, I prefer Panasonic’s beautiful S PRO lenses. The 24-70 is large and somewhat heavy, but the image quality is worth it. Prime like sharpness and color reproduction makes it the best 24-70 for Panasonic unless you want to spend triple for the Leica version.

  • Panasonic S PRO 70-200 - Another great zoom lens from Panasonic. This one is a behemonth and while I didn’t like carrying it around as much, I was always taken aback by the image quality. So much so that this became my defacto lens for swimwear photography. Worth every penny if you don’t mind the size.

  • Leica APO-Summicron-SL 90mm f/2 ASPH - Simply put, outside of Fujifilms GF 110mm, this is best portrait lens I’ve ever used. Exceptional build quality, sharpness, and clarity just brings portraits to life. While only an f/2, the bokeh won’t be as fancy as some other lenses in this focal range, but there’s a rendering to the photos unlike anything I’ve seen on any competiting system. It’s expensive, normally retailing for $5,795 but if you want the best autofocusing portrait lens for L-Mount, this is the one hands down. I can’t rave about it enough. Be warned, once you buy one Leica lens, it becomes an addiction. Apologies in advance.

  • Sigma 105mm f/2.8 DG DN Macro Art Lens - For years I’ve sworn by having a macro lens in the 100mm range for portrait photography. The lack of distortion and sharpness often associated with macro lenses make them an excellent options for portraits. And the close focusing capability is the icing on the cake. The Sigma 105mm excels in all these areas plus it’s lightweight, focuses quickly and relatively inexpensive for such a brilliant optic. Highly recommend for portraiture or actual macro work. It’s also my preferred option on E-Mount as well, it’s that good.

FUJI X-MOUNT

  • Fujifilm XF 16-55 f/2.8 R LM WR - Essentially’s Fujifilm’s “24-70” lens for X-Mount. While a bit older, it’s still a great lens that produces sharp images with beautiful colors. I also used it quite regularly for video work and it was a great fit with the XH2-S. Focusing is fast and accurate. Size wise, it’s not too big or heavy for a lens in this range. If I had to critique it, the only flaw is the design of the lens hood. It can be very difficult getting it on or off the lens at time and storing it in reverse doesn’t always work well. Such an odd flaw for an otherwise great lens.

  • Fujifilm XF 50-140mm f/2.8 R LM OIS WR - Fujifilm’s “70-200” equivalent for APS-C. I actually preferred this lens over many of Fujifilm’s portrait lenses. Not because they were bad, but because this one is so good. Small for a “70-200” zoom, the 50-140mm is a versatile zoom that focus blazingly fast and the OIS makes handholding shots easy. One issue I had with it is the tripod foot. I think all manufacturers should include an Arca Swiss compatible foot as standard now. The Fujifilm doesn’t, so I ordered this one via Amazon and it worked perfectly.

  • Fujifilm XF 23mm f/2 R WR - An older Fujifilm lens design, but still one of the best options when you want a small compact lens in the 35mm focal range. The weather sealing is a bonus. It’s just a great little less with it’s only “issue” being it’s minimal focusing distance. Otherwise, it’s still an excellent buy.

  • Fujifilm XF 35mm f/2 R WR - Similar to the 23mm above, the 35mm f/2 is a great 50mm equivalent. Small, lightweight, fast focusing, beautiful rendering. Recommended.

  • Viltrox 75mm f/1.2 AF - I can be a bit hesistant about using lenses from third-parties I’m not familiar with but Viltrox won me over with this. Definitely one of the best portrait lenses available for X-Mount. And quite affordable at $549. If you want to obliterate backgrounds for your portraits this one is one to consider.

  • Viltrox AF 13mm f/1.4 XF - I used this one mainly for video work and vlogging. Believe the hype, it’s a great wide angle lens for X-Mount that focuses fast, is sharp throughout the range, and has minimal focus breathing. It’s everything they say it is.

  • Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 DC DN Contemporary - Now this little guy is what shooting smaller formats is all about. A TINY lens with a crazy 27-75 focal range along with an f/2.8 aperture makes this one a marvel of design. Sure there’s some vignetting and some distortion, but it’s a great lens to carry around all day. For serious work, I opted for Fuji’s XF 16-55, but for street and everyday photography this one stayed on my camera. It’s so good in fact, I barely used the XF 23mm and 35mm prime lenses. Bravo Sigma for this design.

LIGHTING

I don’t see the need to spend a ton of money on lighting. Well built, quality lights can be purchased in the $350-$600 range depending on the type of light you need. I don’t use Profoto unless I rent them for a client as I think they’re overpriced for what they are. Additionally I don’t want to spend extra on modifiers that feature a Profoto mount. Instead I only use lights that feature a Bowens mount as I find it the most versatile and diverse in terms of available modifiers.

  • Flashpoint Rapid 400 II HSS Monolight - I know Flashpoint are just rebranded Godox lights, but I prefer to buy them as I can them locally at Adorama. And if I have any issues they’ll take care of it locally here in the states versus having to ship the item to Godox. The flashpoint rapids are well made and have a powerful, consistent light input. I use them predominately in my studio, but wouldn’t hesitate to take one on location if I had to. I have three of these monolights that I use primarily as background, hair, or kicker lights.

  • Flashpoint XPLOR Power 1200 Pro R2 TTL Flash Pack - My main light for studio photography. As I often like to boom my lights overhead a pack and head system is my preferred option due to the lighter weight of the flash head. Additionally the total watt seconds are 1200 giving me plenty of power for anything I want to shoot. Whenever i want to shoot at below ISO 100 for portraits, this flash gives me plenty of power along with a fast recycle time. I also bought the adapter to plug it into the wall in my studio. I don’t prefer battery powered strobes for studio work. We’re not on location so we can just plug things in and not have to worry about charging batteries all the time. I also like this model since it works with a variety of accessories, specifically the R1200 Ring Flash Head.

  • Flashpoint eVOLV 200 TTL R2 - My location light of choice, the Flashpoint eVOLV is just a brilliant lighting option for the photographer who wants to travel light, but pack plenty of power. I have four of these units that I carry on location for my corporate headshot clients. They pack down in my bag easily due to their rectangular shape. Battery life is great and mounting options are plentiful. I wish it featured a more powerful modeling light, but otherwise I should have been using these versus the monolights I lugged around years ago. Now there’s no going back. I recommend these along with the Dual Power Flash Bracket for added power and mounting to traditional modifiers.

  • Amaran 100d Daylight Monolight - I used these for video work whenever I have to film the odd corporate interview here or there. No-fuss, sturdy, easy to setup, and great output for the price these are a good low cost options for the filmmaker on a budget. I also have the Bi-Color version, the 100x for when I want to mess around with mixed color temperatures.

‘PUTERS

In another lifetime, I used to build custom PC’s for gamers, video editors, etc. But I’ve been firmly in the Apple ecosystem for decades now and don’t see that changing(unfortunately?). So my computer recommendations will be all Apple focused, I think it offers a great combination of beautiful aesthetics, performance, and an ecosytem that works flawlessly across multiple devices.

  • Apple 24” iMac with M3 Chip - I have the M3 8-Core CPU and 10-Core GPU configuration with 24GB of RAW and a 1TB SSD. It handles practically anything I throw it at from photo to videos.

  • Apple 16” Macbook Pro - I currently have the new M3 Pro version of the Macbook Pro with 12-Core CPU, 18 Core GPU and 36 GB of RAM. The 16” laptop can be a bit cumbersome to use on a plane, but it makes a great workstation for traveling when I need to get serious work done.

  • Apple 11” iPad Pro - After trying the 12.9” iPad Pro and finding it way too large for casual browsing, I settled on the 11” inch version with M2 Chip and 256GB of storage. I use my iPad for everything from invoicing clients, writing my novel, emailing, organizing my schedule, and doodling any ideas. To my dismay, even after all these years that iPads have been on the market, there’s still no comfy way of photo retouching on the device. I went down a whole rabbit hole with that and don’t recommend for photo retouching. The support isn’t there. But for other tasks and when you don’t want to carry a bulky laptop, it’s a great device that I can’t do without.

DISPLAYS

You don’t have multiple monitors bro? Ah, bro. C’mon. You gotta have multiple monitors! In all serious, I’m advocate for multiple monitors as they make me incredibly productive and allows me to see my work in the absolute best format. In addition to the monitor on my iMac this trio of monitors makes my life ever so productive.

  • BenQ SW271C 27" 16:9 4K HDR IPS Monitor - I use this monitor in vertical orientation which allows me to view portraits at a much larger size. When tethered shooting I have this turned in the direction of clients/crew so everyone can preview the work and make adjustments accordingly. Brilliant color, excellent contrast, and feature rich, I recommend this as a relatively inexpensive option for a color accurate monitor. There’s no need to spend thousands on a EIZO. Benq has you covered.

  • Huion Kamvas Pro 24 Plus - My third monitor is my wonderful Huion Kamvas Pro. I’m a total convert of using Pen displays over pen tablets for retouching due to the more direct connection you have with the image. There’s something satisfying and comforting about seeing the image on a large display and being able to work “on” the image itself on the screen instead of on a tablet that’s out of your line of sight. It feels like painting and it’ll be hard to go back to pen tablets as my primary way of retouching. Outside of Wacom, there are few lower cost options available for Pen Displays but for my money Huion is the winner. I tried XP-Pen, but not only did have it less features than the Huion, I ran into a lot of driver related issues. My Huion works flawlessly and just gets out the way so I can work. There’s also Xencelabs who makes a very attractive 24” monitor as an alternative to Wacom, but I don’t need to spend that much on a display. Sub $1000 is the way to go.